PROPRIANO & THE VALINCO GULF:
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About Propriano & the Valinco Gulf…
The Valinco Gulf is one of the most beautiful and unspoilt bays in the south with lots of sandy beaches to be discovered
and enjoyed. Propriano is a lively resort town with restaurants, shops and everything one could want from a seaside
holiday. With its attractive, busy marina with many good restaurants which together dramatic setting make the town
a popular choice for visitors. The natural harbour has a somewhat unfinished air about it symbolic of the changes
that have metamorphosed Propriano from a sleepy fishing village to a bustling resort.
Around the bay to the north is Campomoro, a charming unspoilt village with a recently restored Genoese tower, a
sandy beach, only a few houses and some boats. To the south of the bay is Cappiciolo - perhaps one of the best
spots on the Gulf - and Porto Pollo, a sheltered little seaside village.
Slightly inland from Propriano to the north is Olmeto, a beautiful granite village overlooking the plain of Propriano
which even into the 20th century was notorious for its many vendettas. Sartene, 'The most Corsican of Corsican
towns' is stern and sombre, but also one of the best preserved places in Corsica and the town fervently keeps alive
some of the island's oldest traditions. Sartene the capital of the area is often described as the most Corsican
of Corsican towns. During the 19th Century it was the scene of many feuds and even today has its own distinct atmosphere.
Traditions live on and the Good Friday procession with an anonymous person carrying the cross through the medieval
streets of the town continues to this day. The area is also teeming with pre-historic sites to be explored.
A little bit of history…
Propriano is the original port of the Sartenais, where Sampiero Corso landed in 1564 as part of his plan to liberate
Corsica from the Genoese. However, pirates were a constant problem and hardly any houses remained when the French
took hold, but gradually the town was rebuilt during the 19th century. Sartene, another ancient town, was the seat
of the Dila dei Monti; feudal barons who preferred to meter out their own form of justice than adhere to the law,
and eventually turned Sartene into a haven for those in hiding. Today, Sartene is a ramshackle collection of tall
imposing fortress style houses. The town remains one of the best preserved in Corsica thanks largely to the revenue
from Sartenais wine - some of the best in the region - and the philosophy of the mayor, who has instigated laws
preventing unsightly buildings.
As an island, Corsica has enjoyed a turbulent past. There is plenty of evidence of early settlement in Corsica,
with menhirs and dolmen being found in several locations. The island was occupied by Greeks and Romans during the
early centuries AD., the earliest settlement being at Aleria (first called Alalia) on the east coast. Mineral deposits
of copper, iron and lead further inland were exploited, as were the lagoons along the east coast, which were rich
in oysters and eels.
The subject of many invasions during the middle ages, control of the island passed to the state of Pisa in 1077.
Following a period of rivalry with the state of Genoa, the Pisan state declined in 1284, and rule of Corsica, together
with Sardinia, passed to the king or Aragon. The Genoese regained the island in 1347, and ruled it - with a brief
intervention by the French in 1553 - until 1729, the year of the Corsican revolution for independence. There followed
a turbulent forty years of struggle by the Corsicans, under the leadership of Pascal Paoli who governed independent
Corsica from 1755 to 1768 and gave it its constitution, modelled on that of England.
In 1768, the treaty of Versailles ceded Corsica to France and 1769 marked the end of Corsican independence. Napoleon
was born in Ajaccio on 15 August 1769. Apart from a brief period from 1794 to 1796 when St. Gilbert Elliot ruled
an Anglo-Corsican kingdom as viceroy, Corsica has remained part of the French republic to the present. During the
19th century, under Napoleon III and the third republic, the island was developed economically, with the building
of roads, the railway and schools.
With the decline of agriculture on the island during the second half of this century, Corsica has gradually depopulated,
the permanent population now being around a quarter of a million people. Many young people go to the mainland -
Le Continent - for education and to work, and there are Corsicans throughout France predominantly in the civil
service, the police and customs service.
Things to see and do…
PROPRIANO - On a site that has been
inhabited since the second century BC, the tiny port was not developed at all until the turn of the century when
the jetty and the lighthouse were built. Even so it is only really in the last twenty or thirty years, with the
advent of tourism, that Propriano has grown into a relatively important tourist centre. In the high season there
are several ferries each week from mainland France as well as some services to Sardinia. The main seafront road
is rather pleasant (Avenue Napoleon). After a stroll around the harbour to check out some of the yachts, or a browse
around the shops and boutiques, there are numerous cafes with great big terraces where you can sit and watch the
world go by and indulge in huge ice-cream concoctions. Or enjoy an aperitif, before dinner in one of the equally
numerous restaurants. Several shops selling Corsican produce are along the front, and make a good place to buy
gifts to take home. The Thermal Baths in Propriano (Bains de Baracci) can be found just outside Propriano, take
the D557 Baracci turn off just north of town. The main pool is pleasantly warm, the hot tub deliciously so, and
there is an open roof (9-12 & 2-7pm roughly) .If you wear silver jewellery take it off (the sulphur in the
water will turn it yellowish). Men should wear proper swimming briefs, not trunks.
CAMPO MORO - If you want a little
bit of heaven, head for Campo Moro. A beautiful beach in a beautiful setting, at the south west tip of the gulf.
It is a curving croissant of golden sand, protected by a headland where you can climb to the roof of the largest
Genoese watchtower on the island. The bay is thus sheltered and makes an excellent place to swim. It shelves relatively
gently and is a great beach for children. But it does get busy in July and August, and there are quite a lot of
small motor craft in the bay, so take care. There are one or two beachside cafes for lunch, snacks and ice-creams.
When it's not so hot you can walk along the rugged coast behind the tower. Spend a day just relaxing relaxing at
the beach or exploring the Tour Genoese de Campomoro.
PORTIGLIOLO BEACH - On the way to
Campo Moro, Portigliolo beach has loads of room even in high season, if you are prepared to walk along from the
most congested ends. It shelves quite steeply and can get very rough when it's windy. Take great care here as it
can be quite dangerous at times. The Bar Robinson does a brisk trade here and there should still be the watersports
facilities (Locanautic) - windsurfers, boats for hire, pulls on tyres etc. Half way along topless sunbathing and
often nudism is the norm. The Propriano end is often quieter, but quite exposed with no facilities. To get there
from Propriano drive all the way along the main road with the sea on your right and keep going past the Cabanon/U
Corsu/toutes directions sign for another 100 metres or so when you should turn left (not sharp left) and continue
on this road til you come to the beach. The Rizzanese river flows out into the sea in the middle of the beach cutting
it into two which is why you normally have to go via the Campo Moro road to get to the other end.
FILITOSA'S STANDING STONES - Discovered
in the 1940's, and written about by Dorothy Carrington in her fascinating "Granite Island" book on Corsica,
Filitosa is Corsica's most important prehistoric site, if not one of the most important in the Mediterranean. Lying
in the countryside of the Taravo valley on the north side of the Valinco Gulf, these stone statues or menhirs,
(from the celtic maen hir meaning long stone) date from around 6000BC. Give yourselves about one/one and a half
hours to walk around the parkland setting where the stones are and to visit the small museum afterwards. There's
a café outside for drinks, ice-creams etc. Open all day every day in high season. For photographs apparently
early morning is best for reliefs and late evening for atmospheric lighting. It is interesting to see, and you
can include a visit to Filitosa as part of a day out around Propriano and the Valinco Gulf.
To get there turn off the main N196 Ajaccio road onto the D157 coast road. Just after Abbartello the road turns
inland and you carry straight on, on the D57, to Filitosa. For a lunch stop try Porto Pollo - you could continue
to Capo di Muro afterwards and have a walk out to the tower or lighthouse. Or try the Hotel Restaurant Abbartello,
or La Crique, on the stretch of coast at Abbartello. To make a circuit you could go or return from Filitosa via
Sollocaro, col de Celaccia and Olmeto.
SARTENE - La plus Corse des villes
Corses is well worth a visit. Founded in the 10th century and long time home to the sgio, the rich and powerful
landowners of the region, the town seemingly had a law of it's own and retains the same aura today. In the last
century the whole town was caught up in a nasty vendetta which finally ended with a peace treaty being signed in
the church in 1834. Testimony to this is the number of bricked up windows you can see if you wander around the
old Santa Anna district, through the arch off the main square, the Place Porta. People literally used to barricade
themselves in and even today the atmosphere is somewhat sombre and forbidding.
You might also like to look inside the church in the square where the cross and chains carried by the Easter penitent
in the catenacciu ("the chained one") procession are kept. On Good Friday evening an anonymous penitent
re-enacts Christ' s journey to Golgotha, through the streets of Sartene, falling three times as Christ did. He
carries a huge wooden cross, and walks barefoot in chains. Mass is heard at the end of the procession. Besides
the old part of town, there's a quite interesting Museum of Prehistory (9-12 and 2-6), signposted a little way
up opposite the square.
Sartene has a small produce market in the square on a Saturday morning, which is a great spot for a morning coffee,
and a bit of watching the world go by, or an aperitif on a summer's evening. If wine tasting is your thing then
just by the arch into the old town from the square is La Cave Sartenaise where you can taste and purchase some
of the local wines. You will also find some small handicraft and souvenir shops in the streets through the arch.
Spend a leisurely afternoon visiting one of the many Domaines (vineyards) of the popular Sartenais.
TIZZANO AND THE MEGALITHIC SITES, NEAR SARTENE
- Tizzano is a tiny seaside village clustered around a sheltered inlet. Before the creation of the Ajaccio - Bonifacio
road in 1837 which passed by Propriano it served as a port for the export of agricultural produce from the Sartenais
region. Nowadays there are quite a lot of private holiday homes here,
To get to Tizzano take the D48 off the main N196 road, and head towards the coast at Tizzano. For a lunch stop
there is a restaurant called "chez Antoine" on your left as you arrive at the inlet, which is renowned
for it's fish dishes. From the terrace you look across to the old fort.
You could make a detour en route to or from Tizzano to visit the megalithic sites. The one at Cauria is perhaps
the best, and really the only one now accessible due to squabbles amongst landowners over whose land is whose!
On the way down the D48 to Tizzano turn left for Cauria onto the D48a and a short while on park on your right and
walk down the track to the Dolmen de Fontenaccia. This is a great stone table constructed as a burial chamber 4000
years ago. It's the best conserved and most striking to have been found in Corsica. From here you can complete
a circular walk taking in the stone menhirs of Renaju and Stantari before returning to the car. It's hard to imagine
this green, wild, landscape ever being inhabited.
LES BAINS DE CALDANE NR STE LUCIE - This is a small open air tub you can
go and unwind in. It's very ancient and has been known about since Roman times. The form is to relax in the pool,
and enjoy the views. There's a café for drinks too. To get there take the D268 to Ste Lucie de Tallano (off
the main N196 road coming from Propriano) and after about 5 minutes drive turn right onto the D148. You shortly
cross the river, then turn left immediately and it' about half a kilometre up the road on the left.
AULLENE, QUENZA & ZONZA - MOUNTAIN
VILLAGES - These mountain villages make good lunch stops on a day in the mountains - the Hotel de La Poste in Aullene
has friendly owners and a guide to walks around Aullene. Quenza and Zonza also have one or two restaurants where
you enjoy lunch with stunning views of the mountains all around. Try the Hotel Sole e Monte in Quenza, l'Aiglon
or the Auberge du Sanglier, in Zonza.
STE LUCIE DE TALLANO - Most people
love this sleepy little village with it's grand old granite houses grouped around a lovely square - la place du
monument aux morts - looking over the valley of the Rizzanese river. If you take a close look at the war memorial
in the square, at the base you can see the rare stone "diorite orbiculaire", easily recognizable by it's
concentric green rings of grey and dark green. It is very rare and the only other place it's been found, in the
world, apparently, is Finland. Easy to work it was used, notably, in the decoration of the Medici chapel in Florence.
For coffee and croissants the Bar Ortoli on the corner is a good spot, and for a simple lunch there's the Santa
Maria restaurant next to the fountain. The owners of the Bar Ortoli should have the key for the church opposite
if you want a look inside. You'll see the eyes of the patron saint of the village, Lucie, who put out her own eyes
to stop the amorous advances of her admirers. People with eye trouble still pray to her for help. From here it's
a short hop to the rock pools at Zoza, or to the archaeological site at Cucurruzzu.
For a short walk head down to the hamlet of Poggio-di-Tallano on the D320, and as you're leaving the hamlet take
the path on your left after the last house down to the 12th century Romanesque church of Saint Jean Baptiste.
ZOZA ROCK POOLS - A well known and
well frequented spot. From the square in Ste Lucie, take the road in the direction of Zoza (10 mins drive from
Ste Lucie). Drive through the village and turn very sharp left where the houses run out. You should see signs for
"buvette" and "U Ponte Vecchiu". About 50 yards down the hill park if you can and walk down
the dirt track on the right to the pools. There is more room to park further down the hill, at the church - from
here follow the road (track) and cut through past the houses to pick up the dirt track leading down to the pools.
You can sunbathe on the rocks or venture a little further up or down stream without too much difficulty. Children
generally love these pools.
CASTELLO DI CUCURRUZZU AND CAPULA,
NR LEVIE - These two archaeological sites enjoy a wonderfully picturesque setting in the mountains on the plain
of Levie at 700metres of altitude and are linked together by a walk of about 1 hour. A book, or better still an
audio cassette, will guide you around the site. The tape is a little quirky with wind chimes and other "atmospheric
noises" and a cuckoo to tell you when to stop and start the cassette - but it is both informative and interesting.
Young children should enjoy clambering amidst the stones. Fill in the background at the musee Departementale archaeological
museum in the middle of the main street Levie (10-12 and 3-7). To get here take the road from Ste Lucie de Tallano
towards Levie and turn left where you see the sign for Prehistoric Sites about 5kms along. After a couple of kilometres
park in the field on your right and the entrance hut is across the other side of the road.
Days out further afield…
AJACCIO - Corsica's capital and birthplace
of Napoleon, Ajaccio sits at the mouth of the largest gulf on the island and has the most important port as well
as a remarkably mild climate. It is also the capital of the departement of Corse-du-Sud, and of the island (though
the Bastiais would have it otherwise).
You can visit Napoleon's House, the Musee Fesch with it's impressive collection of Italian paintings (closed Monday
Oct-June and Tuesday and mid-June-Mid September), and, of course, go shopping. Though many shops are also closed
on a Monday.
The nicest area to wander around is near place Foch (the tourist office is situated off here) and the streets between
here and the cathedral, the main road (Cours Napoleon) and the rue Cardinal Fesch. You'll find plenty of places
to eat in the area too. Along from place Foch is the square where the morning market is held daily - mainly fresh
produce and a good place to purchase Corsican specialities (cheese, ham, nougat, jam, wines and liqueurs), or buy
your lunchtime picnic. The sea front promenade along the route des Sanguinaires is a pleasant place to stroll.
The Nave Va company run boat trips from the old port near the citadelle out to these islands, as well as further
afield (Bonifacio, Porto and the Calanques).
Out west beyond the town along the coast road towards the Iles Sanguinaires you'll find several lovely beaches,
such as the Palm beach, Marinella beach - there are restaurants here of the same name so it's hard to miss. If
you go to the very end of the road you come to the rocky tip of the Pointe de La Parata, beyond which lie the Sanguinaire
Isles, the name coming from the reddy hue of the rock.
BONIFACIO - A fascinating town with
a fascinating history. For the best views of the cliffs, and to relax and cool off after your journey, you might
start your visit by taking a boat trip around the "grottes et falaises" (cliffs and caves). You may be
hounded by various boat owners at the port - so can often haggle the price of your trip. The cafes around the port
are great passing the time of day places, and there are numerous restaurants. There's also a tiny but well done
Aquarium on the port which children, as well as adults, might enjoy.
Walk or take the tourist train from the port up to the town on top of the hill. If you do walk you need to know
that it's quite a steep climb from the church of St. Erasme on the port up to the chapel of St. Roch. Look over
the wall here and you'll see the grain de sable, a massive chunk of limestone cliff that's fallen into the sea
and which adorns a thousand postcards. Steps here, lots of them, lead down to a tiny scrap of beach.
The walk along the cliffs starts from here, off to your left. Otherwise drive up and leave the car in one of the
parks by the cemetery. From here it's a flatter walk into the old town, which is a delightful place to wander.
The view from the cliffs is superb, and you can visit the churches and ramparts. The narrow streets are full of
shops and cafes. The marine cemetery at the far end of the clifftop by all the carparks is much visited as it's
full of extraordinarily elaborate mausoleums.
If you set out from Propriano/Tizzano, then about 10kms beyond Sartene on the N196 main road there's a little place
on the right hand side of the road called the Fromagerie d'Acciola. A great lunch spot or supper stop on the way
home.
PORTO VECCHIO - A resort which is
extremely popular with Italians during the peak summer months the town of Porto Vecchio has developed into a thriving
tourist destination. The third largest town in Corsica, Porto Vecchio was built on a hill overlooking the gulf
and salt marshes. The old Genoese walled town still seduces visitors with its picturesque narrow streets and the
austerity of its high stone houses that are set within the citadelle's ramparts. The streets are dotted with numerous
shops offering the latest fashion and the very best local products, proof if need be that the area is fast becoming
the playground of the rich and famous. Within a few minutes walk, the marina lined with cafés is the ultimate
place to enjoy a leisurely drink during those hot summer evenings. It was in 1540 that the Republic of Genoa decided
to create a fortified settlement in Porto Vecchio. The natural rock formation provided ample protection from Barbarian
attacks.
THE AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA - The highlight
of the mountains in southern Corsica, it's worth the trip up to Bavella just for the views even if you don't want
to walk when you get there. On a clear day you can see the aiguilles or needles, also called the cornes d'Asinao
in Corsican - the donkey's ears - from quite a distance. These jagged peaks seem to change hue in different lights
- they are of the same type granite that form the famous calanches de Piana, on the north west coast of the island,
rich in sodium and potassium which is why they have that warm glow.
If you do intend to walk then the TOP 25 map for the area may be useful - you can get away without it, but you
shouldn't take the risk if you plan a long walk. The famous GR20 walk passes through Bavella and you can do part
of this track (see walks in this folder) . Do remember water, suitable clothing, and stout sensible shoes. The
scenery is glorious. Take a picnic, although there are a couple of cafes at the col de Bavella, notably "Le
Refuge", where you can eat if you prefer.
The road from the Aiguilles de Bavella to Solenzara on the east coast is one of the most stunning on the island,
but it does have a rather narrow section, where you can get the odd traffic jam in July/August as vehicules inch
carefully past one another. Outside this period you should not encounter excessive traffic and the road is well
worth taking.
Once you've dropped down through the hills and pines you find the road running alongside the Solenzara river, and
there are numerous spots to bathe or picnic, or both. Some of the basins are quite sizeable with small beach type
areas on the river banks alongside, but don't expect to have them to yourself. The Ospedale forest road (see below)
offers almost equally dramatic scenery and an easier drive.
THE POLISCHELLU ROCK POOL, NEAR BAVELLA
- A favourite, in a beautiful setting. To get there start from the Col de Bavella. Set your distance counter here.
Drive down towards the east coast at Solenzara. After 9.5kms you come to a stone bridge (the second one). Park
here and go off to the left of the bridge. Follow the river upstream for about 5 minutes until you come to a fabulous
pool in the Polischellu river with a two-level cascade falling into it. Picture-book stuff!
PISCIA DI GALLO WATERFALL, Ospedale
Forest - Between the Bavella massif and Porto Vecchio lies the beech tree forest of Ospedale, where massive granite
boulders lie intermingled with the trees. The large lake just beyond the village is in fact a man made reservoir.
Bordered by pines, it makes a lovely spot for a picnic (but the water level may be somewhat low as the summer progresses).
Just beyond the lake is a cafe at the side of the road and this is the point of departure for the walk to the wonderfully
named Piscia di Gallo (literally "pissing cockerel") waterfall. Follow the red paint marks (and other
walkers). It's a relatively easy walk, taking about 30-40 minutes to reach the top of the waterfall. To reach the
bottom, it is pretty steep and slippery when wet, so only attempt to go down to the bottom if you are fairly agile
and have your hands free.
Beaches…
PROPRIANO
The busiest beach is the Plage du Phare (also known as the Lido Plage as
the Hotel le Lido sits on the beach here). Follow the road into Propriano and as you pass through the town look
out for the sign 'Toutes directions' and a left turn. Keep straight on taking the left fork of the road and continue
on to the very bottom where there is a parking area and a beach bar/café.
If you want somewhere a little quieter and don't mind a bit of a scramble, follow 'Toutes directions' until you
reach a roundabout with the newsagents on the right hand corner. Turn right here and follow the road round to the
right. Turn left as soon as you can which will take you up the Chemin des Plages, past the Arena Bianca on your
right. As the road approaches the top of the hill, look out for an unmarked track on the right. Follow this and
you will reach a small parking area where there are various scrambles down the beach below (be sure to wear rock
shoes or trainers). If you can't face the scramble, continue on past the little track until the road starts to
bear left round the headland and there is a larger beach on your right where the access is a little easier.
CAMPOMORO
Turn off the N196 onto the D121 towards Belvédère /Campomoro and follow the road right to the end.
There is a little parking area in the village and a sandy beach that stretches for about 1km, but it can get very
busy in the summer. If you head towards the tower, there are several little coves where the snorkelling is particularly
good, but the walk will take you about 20-25 minutes (uphill).
PORTIGLIOLO BEACH
On the way to Campo Moro, Portigliolo beach has loads of room even in high
season, if you are prepared to walk along from the most congested ends. It shelves quite steeply and can get very
rough when it's windy. Take great care here as it can be quite dangerous at times. The Bar Robinson does a brisk
trade here and there should still be the watersports facilities (Locanautic) - windsurfers, boats for hire, pulls
on tyres etc. Half way along topless sunbathing and often nudism is the norm. The Propriano end is often quieter,
but quite exposed with no facilities. To get there from Propriano drive all the way along the main road with the
sea on your right and keep going past the Cabanon/U Corsu/toutes directions sign for another 100 metres or so when
you should turn left (not sharp left) and continue on this road til you come to the beach. The Rizzanese river
flows out into the sea in the middle of the beach cutting it into two which is why you normally have to go via
the Campo Moro road to get to the other end.
CAPPICIOLO
There are lots of little coves and bigger beaches along this stretch. A nice little beach close to the marina and
restaurants where you can take lunch. From Propriano head out in the direction of Ajaccio and as you leave the
town look out for a left turn signposted D157 towards Porto Pollo. Turn left here and continue for about 4 or 5
kilometres. You will soon see a couple of restaurants on the left including one called La Crique. There is a large
stretch of beach here, although if you continue on a little further there are lots of little coves if you scramble
down the banks, but the access is not always marked.
PLAGE DE CUPABIA
A beautiful beach with fine golden sand and clear blue waters, but you do
sometimes have to share it with the cows! The parking can be a problem in high season as the car park is quite
small, so you need to get there early. There is a small beach café for refreshments. Follow the D157 in
the direction of Porto Pollo, turn left at the T-junction and then right onto the D155 towards Serra-di-Ferro and
the Coti Chiavari. Shortly after you pass through the village of Serra-di-Ferro, look for a left turn (D155a) signposted
'Plage de Cupabia'. The parking area is at the end of this road.
PORTO POLLO
A nice little beach close to the marina and restaurants where you can take
lunch. From Propriano head out in the direction of Ajaccio and as you leave the town look out for a left turn signposted
D157 towards Porto Pollo. Follow this road all the way to the village.
NEAR BONIFACIO…
Petit Sperone beach - Just outside of Bonifacio, conveniently enough, this is a gorgeous little inlet reached by
walking 10 minutes along Pianterella beach and 2 minutes more around the tip of the headland - a feast for the
eyes when you arrive. As you drive into Bonifacio and the port is on your right, turn left where the hospital is
onto the D58 and after about 200 metres turn right for Piantarella. There's a surf shop called Tam Tam on the corner
on the right where you turn. Carry straight on. Park and walk onto the beach. Turn right and head for Sperone.
Roccapina beach - Perfect white sand
and clear water but there's not much room so again it can be too busy in July and August. About 20 or so kilometres
south of Sartene, and midway between Bonifacio and Sartene, turn off the main road by the Auberge de Coralli and
follow the dirt track down. The track to the beach may be very rough so drive carefully. Above the beach is the
so-called Lion of Roccapina, a natural rock sculpture, crowned by an old Genoese watchtower erected at the start
of the 16th century, in the first construction phase involving 25 towers. By all means do marvel at how they built
it up there but please do not try and climb up to it. A romantic legend about the lion would have it that a powerful
noble, feared by the Saracen pirates - who called him "The Lion", was in love with a beautiful young
girl. When she refused his advances, from despair he died and was petrified in the form that you see today.
BEACHES BETWEEN PORTO VECCHIO AND BONIFACIO…
All of these are situated off the main east coast road, the RN196. As they are well known as Corsica's finest beaches
they are often the most crowded during high season. All the signposts are on the left if driving towards Bonifacio
or on the right if moving towards Porto Vecchio . Along this stretch of coast there are also other, less popular
beaches. To find them simply take an exploratory drive down any of the turn offs heading in the correct direction.
La Palombaggia -The most famous beach
on the island has white sand, shallow, clear water and is lined with beautiful pine trees. The access road may
seem long and windy and it can be overcrowded in high season but at any other time of year is well worth a visit.
Santa Giulia - Another popular, east
coast beach with fine white sand and sheltered areas. There is also a good watersports school here.
La Rondinara - A crescent shaped beach
with shallow water, fine white sand and often quieter and less well known than the previous two.
Sports and activities…
Windsurfing & Sailing
ENV Near the capitainerie on the seafront in Propriano offers a variety
of watersports including windsurfing and sailing. Tuition and/or equipment hire available on Mancinu beach.
Jetskis
Can be hired from Propriano and Porto Pollo in high season. A boat licence is
bligatory. Waterskiing is available from Portiglio beach but is weather dependent.
Diving
There are 2 diving schools in Propriano, U Levante and Valinco plongee both found on the port near the tourist
office. There are also diving schools in Campo Moro and Porto Pollo. Beginners welcome for a trial.
Boat Trips
ENV Offer motorboat trips (12 seater motorlaunch) and there are many excursions
including a picnic at sunset and also at sunrise for those interested in photography. ENV also have an 11 seater
skippered catamaran, "Big Blue", complete with underwater music system, for sailing trips in the Gulf.
Paese di Valinco
Have two larger vessels and offer great excursions in the Valinco gulf as
well as further afield (Bonifacio, Calanches de Piana).
Tennis
There are 3 courts in Propriano, off the hill climbing up/down to Casino supermarket, Tel 04 95 76 13 35 to book
and for fees.
Mountain Bikes
TTC in the town centre have a selection of bikes for hire. Turn left up
ave Gen de Gaulle, past the Societe Generale and follow the road straight on. You will see bikes parked on the
left hand side. Marie-Jo speaks English.
Horse Riding
A Madunina is on the road to Sartene. You will see it on the left hand side
just before the turn-off to Ste Lucie.
Centre Equestre de Baracci is the Olmeto side of Propriano, about 1km outside town, (just down the D557 to Baracci).
Centre Equitation du Valinco is beyond Propriano centre and offers rides along the beach for the more experienced
rider.
Valinco Airclub
Offer a great opportunity to appreciate the scenery from the sky, in a small
3 seater plane. A 20 minute flight around the Valinco Gulf, or longer circuits taking in the south of the island,
Bonifacio, Porto Vecchio, and returning over the Bavella mountains, weather permitting, can be arranged. Tel 04
95 76 09 82 or call in at the aerodrome. Cost very approximately was 100 euros for an hour's trip (between up to
three passengers) in 2001, and reservations are recommended. TAVARIA AERODROME (on the road towards Campo Moro)
ULM
Will appeal to fresh air fiend's and is another fun way to take in the scenery. It is a sort of motorised hang
glider, a small cockpit for two - pilot plus one passenger - suspended beneath the wing. Radio contact via helmets
is available so you can speak to the pilot, or alternatively listen to your favourite cassette as you glide above
the gulf. Cost is approximately 2 euros a minute, so you can do a 10 or 15 minute flight, or half an hour. Vincent,
your pilot, can be contacted on 06 12 55 65 40 and reservations are recommended especially in July and August.
Valinco Parachute Club
For a once in a lifetime experience you can try a tandem parachute jump.
A truly incredible experience, where both the scenery, and the emotion, may take your breath away. Jump from 3000metres
from a small Cessna, available most weekends/some weekdays. Or from 4000m from a larger "Pilatus" (10
passengers) which comes once monthly to Propriano, when parachute courses are run. During these weeks your jump
can normally be filmed too for a unique souvenir of Corsica seen from the skies. Cost of a tandem is approximately
195 euros and you will need a medical certificate from a GP too (certificat de non contra-indication a un saut
en parachute - tandem). You can contact instructor Bob Martinez on 06 03 50 39 32.
Useful information - amenities…
PROVISIONS
Casino is the biggest supermarket in Propriano and is found on one of the
roundabouts on the way to Sartene. It has a good selection of everything you could want and has a fresh fish counter.
Opening times:
These can vary according to the season, but generally speaking will be as follows;
| Low Season | Monday - Saturday | 8:30am - 12:00pm & 3pm - 7:30pm |
| High Season | Monday - Friday | 8:30am - 12:00pm & 3pm - 7:30pm |
| Saturday | 8:30am - 7:30pm non-stop |
There is also a Spar and a Coccinelle in the town centre but these are much smaller so have less choice but are useful if you want to avoid the hassle of a large supermarket. These are normally open in the morning on Sundays and Bank holidays, and sometimes again in the afternoon. There is also a little patisserie in the town (where the road splits for the one way system) that stocks bread, savory snacks and cakes which is open normally until 7pm even on Sundays.
Figari has a small spar supermarket which is normally open 7 days a week so you
may prefer to stop there en-route to your accommodation. From the airport, follow the direction of Porto Vecchio.
Sartene also has a Super U (closed from 12pm - 3pm) which is a less busy stop on your return from a day out if
you are at risk of missing Casino. There is also a daily market every morning on Rue Pandolfi (the road running
parallel to the harbour front) where you can buy locally grown fruit and veg.
NEWSPAPERS
You can sometimes find English newspapers in the librarie-presse on the harbour front. Bear in mind that supplies
are limited and the papers are usually at least a day old.
BEACH ACCESSORIES & GIFTS
Casino has a good selection of beach toys, sun-creams and beach towels but
there are also shops in the town centre where you can buy beach accessories and souvenirs.
BOUTIQUES
Again, scattered around Propriano town there are boutiques and clothing shops catering for all budgets.
POST OFFICE
The post office is found at the large roundabout behind the harbour front.
It is open Mon-Fri 9h-17h and on sat 9h-12h. bear in mind that queues are often long and slow so try to buy your
stamps when you buy your postcards. You can buy phonecards in the post office and also in the Tabacs.
PHARMACIES
The main pharmacy is on the left as you drive along the harbour front. All
pharmacies close for siesta at 12h until 15h. On Saturdays and Sundays there will be a notice on all the pharmacy
doors indicating which is the pharmacie du garde and when it will be open.
BANKS
Arriving into Propriano town centre on the one way system, Societe Generale is on your left on the corner of rue
General de Gaulle and Rue 9 septembre. Turning left here up rue General de Gaulle you see the Banque Populaire
on your left. The Credit Lyonnais is on Ave Napoleon (harbour front). Generally the banks are open from 8h45 until
11h45 and 13h30 until 17h.
Illness…
In the event of illness or accident, the emergency telephone numbers are listed below. Please be aware that some
operators may not speak English.
FIRE 18
AMBULANCE 15
POLICE 17
If you do need urgent medical assistance, you will need to contact your insurance company straight away.
DOCTORS - Pharmacies in
France can help with general prescribing for some ailments and are normally the first port of call prior to a Doctor's
appointment. However, if you do need to see a doctor, most surgeries do not have a receptionist, and there is no
appointments system for all or part of the day - simply turn up and wait your turn. Most surgeries will close for
lunch, and will not be open on Sundays. If you need a doctor on a Sunday, you will need to contact the locum doctor
(details will be in the local paper, Corse Matin).
Propriano
Dr Carlotti Tel: 04 95 76 04 30 (on the left hand side on the harbour front)
Dr Quilichini Tel: 04 95 76 00 96 (on the harbour front also)
Olmetto
Dr Secondi Tel: 04 95 74 63 17 ( at the top of the village, from Propriano, drive through both sets of traffic
lights and the surgery is signposted off to the left)
DENTISTS - By appointment,
but in emergency situations the dentist will juggle appointments so that you are seen as quickly as possible.
Propriano
Dr Carlotti tel: 04 95 76 31 75 (On the left hand side on the harbour front)
Dr Leandri Tel: 04 95 76 09 28 (turn right just before the port onto Rue de Gaulle)
Dr Altounian Tel: 04 95 76 06 60 (farther along the Rue de Gaulle)
HOSPITAL - Hopital de
Sartene Tel: 04 95 77 95 00 (follow the signs on arrival at the village of Sartene).
Ajaccio (Notre Dame de la Misericorde) Tel: 04 95 29 90 90
In more serious cases you may be evacuated either by ambulance or by helicopter to Ajaccio hospital.
FOR ANY MEDICAL TREATMENT…
You will need your insurance documents, and European health card (replacement for the E111 form (available from
post offices), passport and money/credit cards as you will be required to pay in advance for any treatment and/or
prescriptions.
Always remember to collect receipts (Feuille de soins) for any treatment you are given or medicine you buy. The
EC countries' medical agreements entitle you to certain medical benefits if you are ill whilst abroad. If your
costs are less or not much more than the excess on your insurance policy, you might be better to use your EHIC.
BONIFACIO, PORTO VECCHIO & THE EXTREME SOUTH:
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About Bonifacio…
Perched high on a limestone peninsular at Corsica's southernmost tip, the ancient town of Bonifacio looks out across
a narrow strait of water to the Italian island of Sardinia, just 12km away.
With its rich and turbulent history, the Bonifacio is thought to have been founded in 828 by the Marquis de Toscane
Boniface who gave the town it's name. In recent times, Bonifacio has been well restored, and the network of narrow
lanes, twisting and turning up to the impressive Citadel now offers visitors a fascinating and bustling base from
which to explore the south of Corsica. Here you can wander amongst the ramshackle medieval houses and boutiques
selling handicrafts, jewellery and curiosities. A trip to the Citadel would not be complete without seeing the
eerie maritime cemetery. Perched at the very edge of the town overlooking the sea, the silence is a stark contrast
to the bustling atmosphere of the rest of the Citadel.
From the port, the boat excursions are a must - visit the Lavezzi islands or one of the many grottoes and caves
- the view of Bonifacio from the sea is simply amazing. For beach lovers, there are many fine sandy beaches in
the area, and the windsurfing at Santa Manza is reputed to be the best on the island. Close to Bonifacio is the
spectacular Sperone golf course. Created by Robert Trent Jones and set at the edge of some of Corsica's most beautiful
and wild terrain, it was recently voted one of the best courses in Europe.
The fine sandy beaches in the area are renowned and the windsurfing is reputedly the best on the island. Perched
high on a limestone peninsula, the ancient town of Bonifacio looks out across a narrow strait of water to the Italian
island of Sardinia, just 12km away.
About Porto Vecchio...
A resort which is extremely popular with Italians during the peak summer months the town of Porto Vecchio has developed
into a thriving tourist destination. The third largest town in Corsica, Porto Vecchio was built on a hill overlooking
the gulf and salt marshes. The old Genoese walled town still seduces visitors with its picturesque narrow streets
and the austerity of its high stone houses that are set within the citadelle's ramparts. The streets are dotted
with numerous shops offering the latest fashion and the very best local products, proof if need be that the area
is fast becoming the playground of the rich and famous. Within a few minutes walk, the marina lined with cafés
is the ultimate place to enjoy a leisurely drink during those hot summer evenings.
Named "City of Salt" Porto Vecchio has salt marshes located at the mouth of River Stabacciu, which still
produce yearly approximately 900 tons of sea salt. Nowadays, Porto Vecchio is especially known as a very sought
after summer resort, with easy access to some of the most famous Corsican beaches with their white sand and turquoise
blue waters. Porto-Vecchio is also a excellent base to explore the hinterland, a region which offers so much to
do and see, prehistoric sites, unspoilt mountain villages and a variety of sports including white water rafting,
hiking, horse-riding, among others. But there is nothing wrong with just spending a leisurely day at the beach!
A little bit of history…
The discovery of the "Dame de Bonifacio" in a cave close to the town proves that the area was inhabited
during the Neolithic period, some 8,500 years ago. The town itself was not thought to have been founded until 828,
when the Marquis de Toscane Boniface gave it its name. The powerful Genoese took hold of the town in 1187 when
it sent in its settlers whilst the whole town gathered for a wedding. The 5,000 strong population of the town was
decimated by the plague in 1528, leaving only 700 survivors. In 1554, whilst the town had barely recovered for
the ravages of the plague, it came under siege once again. This time the Turks and French bombarded the town for
18 days and nights until finally, they were tricked into surrender. The invaders pillaged the town mercilessly,
and the villagers were only saved from slaughter when Pascal Paoli paid for their lives.
Founded in 1539 by the Genoese, Porto Vecchio has grown to become Corsica's third largest town with a population
of over 9,000 people. In it's infancy, the town was abandoned many times when the inhabitants were stricken with
Malaria, and remained so until 1564, when Sampiero Corso, 'The most Corsican of Corsicans', chose Porto Vecchio
for his new base from which to liberate the island. However, the town did not really begin to thrive until the
infested areas were transformed into Salt Marshes in 1795. Many islanders still call it 'Salt City'; the 900 tonnes
produced annually caters for most of Corsica's needs, although these days, Porto Vecchio prefers to refer to itself
the 'Pearl of the South' - a claim which is hard to dispute.
As an island, Corsica has enjoyed a turbulent past. There is plenty of evidence of early settlement in Corsica,
with menhirs and dolmen being found in several locations. The island was occupied by Greeks and Romans during the
early centuries AD., the earliest settlement being at Aleria (first called Alalia) on the east coast. Mineral deposits
of copper, iron and lead further inland were exploited, as were the lagoons along the east coast, which were rich
in oysters and eels.
The subject of many invasions during the middle ages, control of the island passed to the state of Pisa in 1077.
Following a period of rivalry with the state of Genoa, the Pisan state declined in 1284, and rule of Corsica, together
with Sardinia, passed to the king or Aragon. The Genoese regained the island in 1347, and ruled it - with a brief
intervention by the French in 1553 - until 1729, the year of the Corsican revolution for independence. There followed
a turbulent forty years of struggle by the Corsicans, under the leadership of Pascal Paoli who governed independent
Corsica from 1755 to 1768 and gave it its constitution, modelled on that of England.
In 1768, the treaty of Versailles ceded Corsica to France and 1769 marked the end of Corsican independence. Napoleon
was born in Ajaccio on 15 August 1769. Apart from a brief period from 1794 to 1796 when St. Gilbert Elliot ruled
an Anglo-Corsican kingdom as viceroy, Corsica has remained part of the French republic to the present. During the
19th century, under Napoleon III and the third republic, the island was developed economically, with the building
of roads, the railway and schools.
With the decline of agriculture on the island during the second half of this century, Corsica has gradually depopulated,
the permanent population now being around a quarter of a million people. Many young people go to the mainland -
Le Continent - for education and to work, and there are Corsicans throughout France predominantly in the civil
service, the police and customs service.
Things to see and do…
BONIFACIO - Explore the ancient Citadel
with its rambling streets and ramshackle collection of boutiques and cafés (removed). Drive up and leave
the car in one of the parks by the cemetery. From here it's a flatter walk into the old town, which is a delightful
place to wander. The view from the cliffs is superb, and you can visit the churches and ramparts. The narrow streets
are full of shops and cafés. The marine cemetery at the far end of the clifftop is much visited, as it's
full of extraordinarily elaborate mausoleums.
You can also follow the underground passage to the Gouvernail de la Corse (Helm of Corsica), which leads to a rock
in the water several metres out to sea that has a shape reminiscent of the helm of a ship. The passage was dug
by hand during Word War II. The more adventurous can walk the Escalier du Roi d'Aragon (in calm weather). Legend
has it that the 187 steps were built in a single night by the troops of the King of Aragon in an effort to break
the stalemate during the siege of 1420. In reality, the stairs are much older. Take a day trip to Sardinia just
12km across the "Bouches de Bonifacio" by ferry. The view of Bonifacio from the sea is not to be missed.
An exceptional town with a fascinating history. For the best views of the cliffs, and to relax and cool off after
your journey, you might start your visit by taking a boat trip around the "grottes et falaises" (cliffs
and caves). You may be hounded by various boat owners at the port - so you can often haggle the price of your trip.
The cafés around the port are great "passing the time of day" places, and there are numerous restaurants.
Visit the Aquarium de Bonifacio, located in a natural cave hollowed out of the limestone cliff. The Aquarium houses
all kinds of local marine flora and fauna gathered from the water between Bonifacio and Sardinia. They sometimes
include some surprises!
Walk or take the tourist train from the port up to the town on top of the hill. If you do walk you need to know
that it's quite a steep climb from the church of St. Erasme on the port up to the chapel of St. Roch. Look over
the wall here and you'll see the Grain de sable, a massive chunk of limestone cliff that has fallen into the sea
and which adorns a thousand postcards. Steps here, lots of them, lead down to a tiny scrap of beach. The walk along
the cliffs starts from here, off to your left.
PORTO VECCHIO - A resort which is
extremely popular with Italians during the peak summer months the town of Porto Vecchio has developed into a thriving
tourist destination. The third largest town in Corsica, Porto Vecchio was built on a hill overlooking the gulf
and salt marshes. Wander the ancient streets of Old Porto Vecchio; the Borgo, where you can see the enormous twisted
tree of the Place de la Republique, visit the 19th Century church of St-Jean Baptiste - left unfinished due to
lack of funds, and the gallery housed within the Bastion di A Funtana Vechju which still has the hole made by Sampiero
Corso when he captured the town in 1564.
The old Genoese walled town still seduces visitors with its picturesque narrow streets and the austerity of its
high stone houses that are set within the citadelle's ramparts. The streets are dotted with numerous shops offering
the latest fashion and the very best local products, proof if need be that the area is fast becoming the playground
of the rich and famous. Within a few minutes walk, the marina lined with cafés is the ultimate place to
enjoy a leisurely drink during those hot summer evenings. It was in 1540 that the Republic of Genoa decided to
create a fortified settlement in Porto Vecchio. The natural rock formation provided ample protection from Barbarian
attacks.
Take a boat trip to the Ile Lavezzi; classified as a nature reserve since 1982, you can find many rare wild flowers.
Enjoy an evening out at Objectif Lune, an unusual venue whose décor depicts the adventures of Tintin, where
you can enjoy Jazz, Blues, or Soul concerts on selected dates throughout the summer months. Alos visit the Domaine
de Torraccia, a short drive from Porto Vecchio, this is one of Corsica's finest vineyards that was founded in the
1960's, and is renowned throughout Corsica. In the cellar, there is a collection of old Corsican photographs, which
you can study whilst tasting the wine.
Of course, one of the greatest attractions of this area are the fabulous beaches - see the beaches section for
more information.
THE AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA - The highlight
of the mountains in southern Corsica, it's worth the trip up to Bavella just for the views even if you don't want
to walk when you get there. On a clear day you can see the aiguilles or needles, also called the cornes d'Asinao
in Corsican - the donkey's ears - from quite a distance. These jagged peaks seem to change hue in different lights
- they are of the same type granite that form the famous calanches de Piana, on the north west coast of the island,
rich in sodium and potassium which is why they have that warm glow.
If you do intend to walk then the TOP 25 map for the area may be useful - you can get away without it, but you
shouldn't take the risk if you plan a long walk. The famous GR20 walk passes through Bavella and you can do part
of this track (see walks in this folder) . Do remember water, suitable clothing, and stout sensible shoes. The
scenery is glorious. Take a picnic, although there are a couple of cafes at the col de Bavella, notably "Le
Refuge", where you can eat if you prefer.
The road from the Aiguilles de Bavella to Solenzara on the east coast is one of the most stunning on the island,
but it does have a rather narrow section, where you can get the odd traffic jam in July/August as vehicules inch
carefully past one another. Outside this period you should not encounter excessive traffic and the road is well
worth taking. Once you've dropped down through the hills and pines you find the road running alongside the Solenzara
river, and there are numerous spots to bathe or picnic, or both. Some of the basins are quite sizeable with small
beach type areas on the river banks alongside, but don't expect to have them to yourself. The Ospedale forest road
(see below) offers almost equally dramatic scenery and an easier drive.
THE POLISCHELLU ROCK POOL, NEAR BAVELLA
- A favourite, in a beautiful setting. To get there start from the Col de Bavella. Set your distance counter here.
Drive down towards the east coast at Solenzara. After 9.5kms you come to a stone bridge (the second one). Park
here and go off to the left of the bridge. Follow the river upstream for about 5 minutes until you come to a fabulous
pool in the Polischellu river with a two-level cascade falling into it. Picture-book stuff!
PISCIA DI GALLO WATERFALL, OSPEDALE
FOREST - Between the Bavella massif and Porto Vecchio lies the beech tree forest of Ospedale, where massive granite
boulders lie intermingled with the trees. The large lake just beyond the village is in fact a man made reservoir.
Bordered by pines, it makes a lovely spot for a picnic (but the water level may be somewhat low as the summer progresses).
Just beyond the lake is a cafe at the side of the road and this is the point of departure for the walk to the wonderfully
named Piscia di Gallo (literally "pissing cockerel") waterfall. Follow the red paint marks (and other
walkers). It's a relatively easy walk, taking about 30-40 minutes to reach the top of the waterfall. To reach the
bottom, it is pretty steep and slippery when wet, so only attempt to go down to the bottom if you are fairly agile
and have your hands free.
PROPRIANO - The Valinco Gulf is one
of the most beautiful and unspoilt bays in the south with lots of sandy beaches to be discovered and enjoyed. Propriano
is a lively resort town with restaurants, shops and everything one could want from a seaside holiday. With its
attractive, busy marina with many good restaurants which together dramatic setting make the town a popular choice
for visitors. The natural harbour has a somewhat unfinished air about it symbolic of the changes that have metamorphosed
Propriano from a sleepy fishing village to a bustling resort.
Days out further afield…
AULLENE, QUENZA, ZONZA - MOUNTAIN
VILLAGES - These mountain villages make good lunch stops on a day in the mountains - the Hotel de La Poste in Aullene
has friendly owners and a guide to walks around Aullene. Quenza and Zonza also have one or two restaurants where
you enjoy lunch with stunning views of the mountains all around. Try the Hotel Sole e Monte in Quenza, l'Aiglon
or the Auberge du Sanglier, in Zonza.
STE LUCIE DE TALLANO - Most people
love this sleepy little village with it's grand old granite houses grouped around a lovely square - la place du
monument aux morts - looking over the valley of the Rizzanese river. If you take a close look at the war memorial
in the square, at the base you can see the rare stone "diorite orbiculaire", easily recognizable by it's
concentric green rings of grey and dark green. It is very rare and the only other place it's been found, in the
world, apparently, is Finland. Easy to work it was used, notably, in the decoration of the Medici chapel in Florence.
For coffee and croissants the Bar Ortoli on the corner is a good spot, and for a simple lunch there's the Santa
Maria restaurant next to the fountain. The owners of the Bar Ortoli should have the key for the church opposite
if you want a look inside. You'll see the eyes of the patron saint of the village, Lucie, who put out her own eyes
to stop the amorous advances of her admirers. People with eye trouble still pray to her for help. From here it's
a short hop to the rock pools at Zoza, or to the archaeological site at Cucurruzzu.
For a short walk head down to the hamlet of Poggio-di-Tallano on the D320, and as you're leaving the hamlet take
the path on your left after the last house down to the 12th century Romanesque church of Saint Jean Baptiste.
ZOZA ROCK POOLS - A well known and
well frequented spot. From the square in Ste Lucie, take the road in the direction of Zoza (10 mins drive from
Ste Lucie). Drive through the village and turn very sharp left where the houses run out. You should see signs for
"buvette" and "U Ponte Vecchiu". About 50 yards down the hill park if you can and walk down
the dirt track on the right to the pools. There is more room to park further down the hill, at the church - from
here follow the road (track) and cut through past the houses to pick up the dirt track leading down to the pools.
You can sunbathe on the rocks or venture a little further up or down stream without too much difficulty. Children
generally love these pools.
LES BAINS DE CALDANE NR STE LUCIE
- This is a small open air tub you can go and unwind in. It's very ancient and has been known about since Roman
times. The form is to relax in the pool, and enjoy the views. There's a café for drinks too. To get there
take the D268 to Ste Lucie de Tallano (off the main N196 road coming from Propriano) and after about 5 minutes
drive turn right onto the D148. You shortly cross the river, then turn left immediately and it' about half a kilometre
up the road on the left.
CASTELLO DI CUCURRUZZU AND CAPULA,
NR LEVIE - These two archaeological sites enjoy a wonderfully picturesque setting in the mountains on the plain
of Levie at 700metres of altitude and are linked together by a walk of about 1 hour. A book, or better still an
audio cassette, will guide you around the site. The tape is a little quirky with wind chimes and other "atmospheric
noises" and a cuckoo to tell you when to stop and start the cassette - but it is both informative and interesting.
Young children should enjoy clambering amidst the stones. Fill in the background at the musee Departementale archaeological
museum in the middle of the main street Levie (10-12 and 3-7). To get here take the road from Ste Lucie de Tallano
towards Levie and turn left where you see the sign for Prehistoric Sites about 5kms along. After a couple of kilometres
park in the field on your right and the entrance hut is across the other side of the road
FILITOSA'S STANDING STONES - Discovered
in the 1940's, and written about by Dorothy Carrington in her fascinating "Granite Island" book on Corsica,
Filitosa is Corsica's most important prehistoric site, if not one of the most important in the Mediterranean. Lying
in the countryside of the Taravo valley on the north side of the Valinco Gulf, these stone statues or menhirs (from
the celtic maen hir meaning long stone) date from around 6000BC. Give yourselves about one/one and a half hour
to walk around the parkland setting where the stones are and to visit the small museum afterwards. There's a café
outside for drinks, ice-creams etc. Open all day every day in high season. For photographs apparently early morning
is best for reliefs and late evening for atmospheric lighting. It is interesting to see, and you can include a
visit to Filitosa as part of a day out around Propriano and the Valinco Gulf.
To get there turn off the main N196 Ajaccio road onto the D157 coast road. Just after Abbartello the road turns
inland and you carry straight on, on the D57, to Filitosa. For a lunch stop try Porto Pollo - you could continue
to Capo di Muro afterwards and have a walk out to the tower or lighthouse. Or try the Hotel Restaurant Abbartello,
or La Crique, on the stretch of coast at Abbartello. To make a circuit you could go or return from Filitosa via
Sollocaro, col de Celaccia and Olmeto.
SARTENE - "La plus Corse des
villes Corses" is well worth a visit. Founded in the 10th century and long time home to the sgio, the rich
and powerful landowners of the region, the town seemingly had a law of its own and retains the same aura today.
In the last century the whole town was caught up in a nasty vendetta, which finally ended with a peace treaty being
signed in the church in 1834.
Testimony to this is the number of bricked up windows you can see if you wander around the old Santa Anna district,
through the arch off the main square, the Place Porta. People literally used to barricade themselves in and even
today the atmosphere is somewhat sombre and forbidding.
You might also like to look inside the church in the square where the cross and chains carried by the Easter penitent
in the Catenacciu ("the chained one") procession are kept. On Good Friday evening an anonymous penitent
re-enacts Christ' s journey to Golgotha, through the streets of Sartene, falling three times as Christ did. He
carries a huge wooden cross, and walks barefoot in chains. Mass is heard at the end of the procession. Besides
the old part of town, there's a quite interesting Museum of Prehistory (9-12 and 2-6), signposted a little way
up opposite the square.
Sartene has a small produce market in the square on a Saturday morning, which is a great spot for a morning coffee,
and a bit of watching the world go by, or an aperitif on a summer's evening. If wine tasting is your thing then
just by the arch into the old town from the square is La Cave Sartenaise where you can taste and purchase some
of the local wines. You will also find some small handicraft and souvenir shops in the streets through the arch.
Spend a leisurely afternoon visiting one of the many Domaines (vineyards) of the popular Sartenais.
TIZZANO AND THE MEGALITHIC SITES,
NEAR SARTENE - Tizzano is a tiny seaside village clustered around a sheltered inlet. Before the creation of the
Ajaccio - Bonifacio road in 1837, which passed by Propriano, it served as a port for the export of agricultural
produce from the Sartenais region. Nowadays there are quite a lot of private holiday homes here.
To get to Tizzano, take the D48 off the main N196 road, and head towards the coast at Tizzano. For a lunch stop
there is a restaurant called "Chez Antoine" on your left as you arrive at the inlet, which is renowned
for its fish dishes. From the terrace you look across to the old fort.
You could make a detour en route to or from Tizzano to visit the megalithic sites. The one at Cauria is perhaps
the best, and really the only one now accessible due to squabbles amongst landowners over whose land is whose!
On the way down the D48 to Tizzano turn left for Cauria onto the D48a and a short while on park on your right and
walk down the track to the Dolmen de Fontenaccia. This is a great stone table constructed as a burial chamber 4000
years ago. It's the best conserved and most striking to have been found in Corsica. From here you can complete
a circular walk taking in the stone menhirs of Renaju and Stantari before returning to the car. It's hard to imagine
this green, wild, landscape ever being inhabited.
AJACCIO - Corsica's capital and birthplace
of Napoleon, Ajaccio sits at the mouth of the largest gulf on the island and has the most important port as well
as a remarkably mild climate. It is also the capital of the departement of Corse-du-Sud, and of the island (though
the Bastiais would have it otherwise).
You can visit Napoleon's House, the Musee Fesch with it's impressive collection of Italian paintings (closed Monday
Oct-June and Tuesday and mid-June-Mid September), and, of course, go shopping. Though many shops are also closed
on a Monday. The nicest area to wander around is near place Foch (the tourist office is situated off here) and
the streets between here and the cathedral, the main road (Cours Napoleon) and the rue Cardinal Fesch. You'll find
plenty of places to eat in the area too. Along from place Foch is the square where the morning market is held daily
- mainly fresh produce and a good place to purchase Corsican specialities (cheese, ham, nougat, jam, wines and
liqueurs), or buy your lunchtime picnic. The sea front promenade along the route des Sanguinaires is a pleasant
place to stroll. The Nave Va company run boat trips from the old port near the citadelle out to these islands,
as well as further afield (Bonifacio, Porto and the Calanques).
Out west beyond the town along the coast road towards the Iles Sanguinaires you'll find several lovely beaches,
such as the Palm beach, Marinella beach - there are restaurants here of the same name so it's hard to miss. If
you go to the very end of the road you come to the rocky tip of the Pointe de La Parata, beyond which lie the Sanguinaire
Isles, the name coming from the reddy hue of the rock.
Beaches…
BEACHES BETWEEN PORTO VECCHIO AND BONIFACIO
All of these are situated off the main east coast road, the RN196. As they
are well known as Corsica's finest beaches they are often the most crowded during high season. All the signposts
are on the left if driving towards Bonifacio or on the right if moving towards Porto Vecchio . Along this stretch
of coast there are also other, less popular beaches. To find them simply take an exploratory drive down any of
the turn offs heading in the correct direction.
LA PALOMBAGGIA - The most famous beach
on the island has white sand, shallow,clear water and is lined with beautiful pine trees. The access road may seem
long and windy and it can be overcrowded in high season but at any other time of year is well worth a visit.
SANTA GIULIA - Another popular, east
coast beach with fine white sand and sheltered areas. There is also a good watersports school here.
LA RONDINARA - A crescent shaped beach
with shallow water, fine white sand and often quieter and less well known than the previous two.
BEACHES NEAR BONIFACIO
PETIT SPERONE BEACH - Just outside
of Bonifacio, conveniently enough, this is a gorgeous little inlet reached by walking 10 minutes along Pianterella
beach and 2 minutes more around the tip of the headland - a feast for the eyes when you arrive. As you drive into
Bonifacio and the port is on your right, turn left where the hospital is onto the D58 and after about 200 metres
turn right for Piantarella. There's a surf shop called Tam Tam on the corner on the right where you turn. Carry
straight on. Park and walk onto the beach. Turn right and head for Sperone.
ROCCAPINA BEACH - Perfect white sand
and clear water but there's not much room so again it can be too busy in July and August. About 20 or so kilometres
south of Sartene, and midway between Bonifacio and Sartene, turn off the main road by the Auberge de Coralli and
follow the dirt track down. The track to the beach may be very rough so drive carefully. Above the beach is the
so-called Lion of Roccapina, a natural rock sculpture, crowned by an old Genoese watchtower erected at the start
of the 16th century, in the first construction phase involving 25 towers. By all means do marvel at how they built
it up there but please do not try and climb up to it. A romantic legend about the lion would have it that a powerful
noble, feared by the Saracen pirates - who called him "The Lion", was in love with a beautiful young
girl. When she refused his advances, from despair he died and was petrified in the form that you see today.
Sports and activities…
There are numerous activities available in the area during the summer season. Should you wish to book, please call
them giving at least 24h notice or call by the activity centre itself. Payment should be made in cash, though many
now accept credit cards. Indeed, in some cases you may need to leave credit card details as a form of deposit.
CANOEING
Obviously canoeing is dependant on correct weather conditions and the level of the water in the river. It may not
therefore always be possible to do these activities and you are advised to contact the clubs earlier during your
holiday rather than later, in order to avoid disappointment.
Christophe Pigeault, Porto-Vecchio
Tel: 04 95 78 58 25 or 06 20 61 76 81 (mobile)
Corse Odyssée, Quenza (Also organised walks)
Tel: 04 95 78 64 05
DIVING
For those who are unqualified, an initiation dive can be done with the following clubs. Those who are qualified
can go on organised dives and rent equipment.
Kalliste Plongée, Plage de Palombaggia
Tel: 04 95 73 53 66
La Murene, Golfe de Santa Manza
Tel: 06 20 90 19 69 or 04 95 73 54 06
Club Atoll, Bonifacio port
Tel: 04 95 73 02 83
WATERSPORTS
Boats or windsurfers can be hired by the hour or classes can be taken. To take part in a course you are advised
to book early during your stay.
Bonifacio Windsurf, Piantarella
Tel: 04 95 73 52 04
Hires out windsurfers, kitesurfers and kayaks
A J Volie, Bancarello
Tel: 06 83 17 37 17
Bonifacio Sailing Club, rue St Erasme
Tel: 06 67 22 42 08
Windsurfing, dinghies, catamaran, Kayak and pedaloes
JET-SKIS
Another weather dependant activity which requires a calm and flat sea. As
the wind often picks up during the day, this is often on offer early mornings.
Pirate Adventure Corsica, Yacht harbour
Tel: 04 95 73 17 13
Also quad and mountain bike hire.
GOLF
Sperone Golf Club, Domaine de Sperone, Bonifacio
Tel: 04.95.73.17.13
18 holes, equipment hire and tuition possible. Also has a bar and restaurant with panoramic view.
MOUNTAINBIKING AND QUAD BIKING
Quad'Aventura, Rondinara, Bonifacio
Tel: 04 95 70 42 56
Good excursions lasting 2h30.
BOAT RENTAL
Bear in mind that to rent out a boat with an engine larger than 1.6cv you
will need a licence.
Marine Location, port de Plaisance, Porto Vecchio
Tel: 04 95 70 58 92
As well as renting out motor and sailboats they can organise day excursions, fishing and water-skiing
Multi service Plaisance, marine de Santa Giulia
Tel: 04 95 70 24 11
Motorboat rentals
Useful information - amenities…
PROVISIONS - PORTO VECCHIO
Porto Vecchio boasts two of the best hypermarkets on the Island. Both Geant
Casino and Hyper U are on the north side of the town and occupy the main sites on two centre commercials. They
both sell huge ranges of everything and have a fresh fish counter. Hyper U also has an external bakery, and there
is an organic produce shop in the same shopping centre.
Opening times:
These can vary according to the season, but generally speaking will be as follows;
| Monday - Friday | 8:45am - 12:00pm & 3pm - 7:30pm |
| Saturday | 8:45am - 7:30pm non-stop |
There are also several small epiceries scattered in the old upper town which sell
fruit and veg and basic groceries. There is another, smaller Casino supermarket to the South of the old town on
the way out, passing through the port and continuing in the direction of Boniacio, on the right hand side. On the
north exit of Porto Vecchio, past the roundabouts at Geant and Hyper U there is Le Petit Marche which has a good
selection of fruit and veg and local produce and is a good option when you want to avoid the hassle of the hypermarkets.
It closes over lunch (12:30-3pm) and is also open on Sundays. Several bakeries exist, there are a couple in and
around the square, another is just after the smaller casino and the one already mentioned in the centre commercial
of Hyper U. There is a butchers to be found in the old town and also a poissonerie to the north of the port. Throughout
high season, there are several other small alimentation attached to camping sites or near residences which tend
to sell most things and often open on Sundays.
PROVISIONS - BONIFACIO
Many people go to the Hyper markets in Porto Vecchio - see above - but Bonifacio
does have fairly complete amenities itself. Most are centred around the port in order to service the many boats
that frequent the area. There is a Spar supermarket on the rte de Santa Manza (turn left after the main carpark)
and then Simioni and Coccinelle are next to each other on the harbour front. They all close for lunch at around
midday until 3pm.
At the far end of the port there is also Chez Lucette, a family run alimentation and a poissonerie where you can
buy fish freshly caught. There is a bakery and a butchers halfway along the port where the steps up to the old
town are. Once in the old town there are several small epiceries scattered around and also bakeries and butchers,
all of which close for siesta at lunchtime.
NEWSPAPERS
BONIFACIO - There is a librarie -presse in the old town near the tourist office which has a small selection of
English newspapers, but bear in mind stocks run out quickly.
PORTO VECCHIO - You can sometimes buy English newspapers at the newsagents in the centre commercial of Geant and
also the newsagents on the square. Bear in mind there is limited supply and they are usually at least a day old.
BOUTIQUES
Porto Vecchio is well known for the array of chic boutiques dotted around the upper town. Most close over lunch
so to get the most out of your shopping spree wait until after 4pm, and be aware that some are fairly pricey. In
Bonifacio, there are several along the harbour front and in the narrow streets of the old town selling women's,
children's and men's clothing and accessories
GIFTS & BEACH ACCESSORIES
The supermarkets sell everything you could need for the beach and there
are several shops selling Corsican produce as gifts and other items to take home along the port and in the old
town.
POST OFFICE
PORTO VECCHIO - The post office is found on rue General Leclerc which is
the road joining the old town with the large roundabout at Hyper U (rond point des quatre chemins). Opening times
9am - 5pm from Monday to Friday and 9am - 12pm on Saturdays.
BONIFACIO - The post office is in the pedestrian area above the Hotel de ville and the Mairie. Opening hours are
9am - 5pm, Monday to Friday.
PHARMACIES
PORTO VECCHIO - There are several pharmacies in Porto Vecchio. The most obvious is on the south side of the old
town on the corner of rue de Gaulle and rue General-Leclerc. There is another after the square on the left hand
side and a further one opposite Hyper U. All close for siesta at 12h until 15h. On Saturdays and Sundays there
will be a notice on all the pharmacy doors indicating which is the pharmacie du garde and when it will be open.
BONIFACIO - The pharmacy is on the port, halfway along where the steps up to the old town are found. It closes
for siesta from midday until 3pm. On Saturdays and Sundays there will be a notice on all the pharmacy door indicating
which is the pharmacie du garde and when it will be open.
BANKS
PORTO VECCHIO - All the major banks have a branch in Porto Vecchio. Societe Generale is found at the quatre chemins
roundabout and has a cash machine. The Credit Lyonnais has a branch on the corner of rue du General Leclerc and
rue Scamaroni, just beyond the cinematheque, and also one opposite Hyper U. Both have cash machines. BNP is in
the centre commercial at Hyper U and has a cash machine and the Banque Populaire is just up the hill from the post
office both of which have cash machines.
BONIFACIO - Societe generale is halfway along the port where the steps up to the old town are found. It has a cash
machine and is open from 8:45am - 11:45am and the again from 1:30pm - 4:30pm.
Illness…
In the event of illness or accident, the emergency telephone numbers are listed below. Please be aware that some
operators may not speak English.
FIRE 18
AMBULANCE 15
POLICE 17
If you do need urgent medical assistance, you will need to contact your insurance company straight away.
DOCTORS - Pharmacies in
France can help with general prescribing for some ailments and are normally the first port of call prior to a Doctor's
appointment. However, if you do need to see a doctor, most surgeries do not have a receptionist, and there is no
appointments system for all or part of the day - simply turn up and wait your turn. Most surgeries will close for
lunch, and will not be open on Sundays. If you need a doctor on a Sunday, you will need to contact the locum doctor
(details will be in the local paper, Corse Matin).
PORTO VECCHIO
Dr Cucchi Tel: 04 95 70 27 75 (on the right as you approach the old town
from the south - rue jean jaures)
Dr Chiarelli Tel : 04 95 70 19 40 (on the right as you approach the old town from the south - rue jean jaures)
SAINTE LUCIE DE PORTO VECCHIO
Dr Fani Tel: 04 95 71 41 58/45 27
BONIFACIO
Dr Bartoli Tel: 04 95 73 02 20 (on the port at the bottom of the steps up
to the old town)
DENTISTS
By appointment, but in emergency situations the dentist will juggle appointments so that you are seen as quickly
as possible.
Porto Vecchio
Dr Roghi Tel: 04 95 70 06 85 (Imm St Antoine, near the Hyper U roundabout).
Sainte Lucie De Porto Vecchio
Dr Mela Tel: 04 95 71 56 17
Bonifacio
Dr Colombo-Santucci Tel: 04 95 73 12 15 (18 rue Doria, in the "haute ville", Bonifacio)
HOSPITAL
PORTO VECCHIO (Clinique de l'Ospedale)
- Tel: 04 95 70 01 11/04 95 70 35 55 Again a small local hospital found near the Hyper U commercial centre.
BONIFACIO - Tel. : 04 95 73 95 73
(Rue Santa Manza) This is a small local hospital and is found on the corner of the main road, left hand side, just
past the port, on the way up to the haute ville.
AJACCIO (Notre Dame de la Misericorde)
- Tel: 04 95 29 90 90
In more serious cases you may be evacuated either by ambulance or by helicopter to Ajaccio hospital.
FOR ANY MEDICAL TREATMENT…
You will need your insurance documents, and European health card (replacement for the E111 form (available from
post offices), passport and money/credit cards as you will be required to pay in advance for any treatment and/or
prescriptions.
Always remember to collect receipts (Feuille de soins) for any treatment you are given or medicine you buy. The
EC countries' medical agreements entitle you to certain medical benefits if you are ill whilst abroad. If your
costs are less or not much more than the excess on your insurance policy, you might be better to use your EHIC.